This Barbecue Joint Does New-School ‘Cue Right

This Barbecue Joint Does New-School ‘Cue Right

  • By Titus Ruscitti Photograph by Jeff Marini
  • 10/10/24

Chicago’s barbecue history dates back to the Great Migration, but a new Beverly spot is looking to the future. Sanders BBQ Supply Co., which James Sanders opened in June, is the first new-school ’cue joint on the South Side. Sanders, who previously worked in catering, tapped pitmaster Nick Kleutsch for a menu that’s Texas-forward but with inspiration from other regions.

Kleutsch uses a smoker custom-built in the Lone Star State that can hold up to 1,000 pounds of meat. Judging by the response so far, they’ll need it. Neighbors and barbecue aficionados are lining up for Flintstones-size beef short ribs cooked low and slow with post oak until the meat is barely hanging on to the bone and for baby back ribs ($14 for half a pound) with a mustard sauce with vinegar and cumin. Peach tea smoked wings are brined for 24 hours in, yes, sweet tea and will have you wondering where they’ve been your whole life. Smoked sausage ($9) comes two ways: Cajun or jalapeño-cheddar; the latter delivers a nice kick. Sides ($6 to $10) include elotes, a family heirloom collard green recipe, and a killer sweet potato cornbread with chunks of potato.

The sleeper hit: fried catfish ($17). In the running for the top-selling item, it’s crusted with cornmeal and stays crisp to the last bite.

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